So you’ve picked a laser cutter and now it’s time to make something. The process of using a laser vs a CNC router Jasa Laser Cutting Medan is more simple but there are a few things to keep in mind.Prepare the Material
Depending on what you are cutting/engraving you might want to apply some type of coating or covering to the surface. When woodcutting especially I like to use masking tape, this keeps the burn marks down and is easy to remove once finished.
For CO2 lasers you can use a spray like CerMark on metal to give a laser-etched effect. While a CO2 laser can’t directly cut or etch a metallic surface, the spray allows the laser to remove it to give a similar lookMaterial Placement
For an enclosed laser the material is placed on the bed. These beds come in different styles and can often be replaced. Since one of the key safety components is an exhaust system having airflow underneath your material is key.A few different types of laser cutter beds:
Honeycomb: This design allows you to support the material while not cutting a ton into the bed. Honeycomb beds are fairly cheap and will eventually wear out. Think of them like a consumable Jasa Laser Cutting Medan when making a purchase decision. A cheap and DIY approach is to use a radiator grid.
Knife Bed: This is the style bed found on higher-end machines. It’s a series of metal knives spaced evenly across the machine. Compared to honeycomb beds they are much more robust. You will just need to be careful when cutting out pieces that are smaller than the distance between the knives since they can fall through the bed.
Pin Bed: These are becoming more popular as a DIY solution especially to people modifying their Chinese laser like the K40. The bed is a series of small metal pins spaced out to support the material. Some designs have the pins permanently attached, with others they can be moved around on a piece by piece basis.
This is a great easy (and cheap) DIY solution
Flat Bed with Slots: This is the style bed that came with my 50W Chinese laser cutter. The slots are pretty minimal meaning that I’m cutting on a flat surface. This has led to lots of scoring on the bottom of my pieces as well as melted plastic building up when cutting acrylics. If your laser comes with a bed like this you will either want to replace it or prop your material up when cutting it out.
Nothing: The majority of diode lasers in this review are just a gantry without an enclosure. The materials that you are working with will be laid directly on a work surface and the diode laser is placed either on top of or around it.Material Alignment
With the material in place, Jasa Laser Cutting you’ll need a way to line the design up to the specific area on the material you want to cut and engrave. This also is done in several different ways depending on what laser you’re using.Tape
This is the simplest and least precise way of doing it. You can run a test cut/engrave and then use tape to mark out the area that was cut out directly on the bed or a sacrificial piece underneath. Then the workpiece is placed to the tape for the actual cut/engrave.
Epilog LasersPhysical Fence
It’s also pretty common to create a physical fence along the x and y-axis. The laser is then aligned to that fence in software so that you have a point of reference when placing artwork.Trace
This is the most common approach and is software-driven. Either the laser itself or the laser aplikasi will have a trace function. This will jog the laser head around the border of the artwork. You can then align either that art in the perangkat lunak or the actual piece of material.
Also, most lasers will either have a second laser pointer (CO2) or a lower power function to the laser itself (diode) that turns on during the trace function. This makes it easier to line up since the laser head is typically a few inches above the workpiece.Cameras
These days higher-end desktop machines come with camera systems that give a live view of the workpiece in the laser aplikasi. You can then align the artwork “directly” on the material to be cut. When available this is by far my favorite means of lining up the artwork.Machine Settings
The material is treated and in place, now it’s time to set a few variables in the laser perangkat lunak. Here are the things that will need to be adjusted:Power
Just because you have a 40W laser doesn’t mean that you will run it full power. A good rule of thumb is to never run a CO2 laser over 50% power to help preserve the life of the glass laser tube. In addition to longevity, power will affect how deep a cut or engrave will go.
Power and speed work hand in hand when setting up the project.Speed
The speed refers to the speed of the laser head. Again this can be changed and works alongside the power setting. Want to have a deeper cut? You can either decrease the speed, increase the power, or both.
There is always a balance in finding the best power/speed settings to give the best results and take the least amount of time.Frequency
Frequency affects the number of laser pulses per second. Some machines can set this while others come with a stock setting. Different materials cut and engrave at different frequencies. While this can vary between machines and specific setups settings, wood is optimized between 500-1000 Hz and acrylic between 5000-20000 Hz.Focus
The final variable is the laser beam focus. This is the focus of the actual laser beam and is adjusted with the Z-axis on the machine. Some machines have an automatic z-axis and can autofocus the beam by moving the entire bed up and down.
In other machines, the z-axis or the laser head itself can be adjusted up and down. While you won’t have to set this up every cut you will need to make sure the laser head is the correct distance above your workpiece as the thickness changes.